Rats?
Vermin is most peoples initial thought to rats, but to be completely correct rats are very clean, intelligent animals, it just happens to be where they choose to live that often gives them a bad name.
The thing is rats are becoming increasingly more popular as pets and the knowledge surrounding these and other small rodents is increasing twofold, becoming a lot more sound. Although their anesthetic risk will remain the same.
Rats as pets - If you have ever owner or had the chance of being in the company of a rat or been involved with them at work, you will know that they each have their own individual characters with couch potatoes, and hyper actives galore!
Rats make excellent pets for children and I will always recommend rats above Hamster, because they are usually very easy to tame, handle, feed and will rarely bite. If buying pets for their children parents tend to opt for Hamsters, Gerbils, Rabbits or Guinea pigs, as they are the more aesthetic option.
Always advise clients to buy rats or any small rodents from a reputable source i.e. a breeder, or a pert shop with a good reputation, make sure the animals have been handled often, and that they look healthy, that the cage is clean, males and female have been separated (or clients could end up with more than they bargained for!) and that they have not been shoved right at the back in a dark corner with no stimuli.
I must admit that I am a Rat owner my self so you could say that I am biased, but I have also had Rabbits and Guinea pigs, Guinea pigs are fairly easy to manage and are usually quite handleable if handled often, Rabbits are much more stubborn although the larger breeds do tend to be more docile. Rabbits as a rule do not like being picked up, and will kick out and scratch, females can be quite aggressive, and males can spray. Neutering tends to help this. And there are always exceptions to this rule. But it is always a good Idea to advise clients to read up on the pet they are considering, and speak to people who own them.
Rats are best kept in single sex groups, but will also do well on their own as long as they are provided with a lot of attention from their owners.
Housing should be a large cage, the minimum cage size allowed for a pair of rats should be 24”X12”X12” (60X30X30) the gauge of the cage wire should be small enough that they cannot squeeze through. A cage with a solid floor should be sought, and if there is a mesh wire floor, it should be removes as it can lead to the rats having sore feet, or getting legs stuck and breaking them. Put plenty of rat safe items on the cage that they can climb up and explore, as rats are quite active and inquisitive. Rats enjoy exploring and running free, I know a lot of owner who let their rats have free range in most of the house, although you do have to think ahead and rat proof items, as they like to chew anything from clothes, wires, and curtains!
Food can be bought from most vets surgeries and pet shops, treats can be in the form of any thing as rats are omnivorous, but beware of foods high in protein as these can give rats skin problems. Always provide them with something that they can chew on, to keep their teeth the correct length. Avoid citrus fruits and onions, as they are too acidic for the rat to digest.
Rats generally live between 1 - 3 years of age, (one of my rats lived to the grand old age of 3, they others were around 1 ½)
Illnesses vary but the most common seen are: -
Mycoplasma - Usually shows itself as snuffling, wheezing and rattling from your rat, they can be still quite happy and lively, or they can be quite ill with it, antibiotics should be sought as soon as possible, though once a rat has Mycoplasma it is virtually impossible to get rid of. General treatment is Baytril oral and Bisolvon powder, (Baytril by injection can cause the skin around the area to sought.) other treatments can include Oxytetracycline, Rimadyl, Ronaxan, and human aerosol asthma inhalers (just a small puff in front of them can ease wheezing) Echinacea drops (without alcohol) or Echinacea tablets
Ultimately a rat suffering from Mycoplasma will eventually die from it, as in its worsening stages it can cause vestibular syndrome, and weakness, acute respiratory distress.
Provide the rat with high-energy food, i.e. baby food is ideal, or critical care formula. Clean the rat's accommodation out regularly to prevent a build up of ammonia, which can aggravate the condition. Isolate the rat, and do not breed from a rat with the disease or that has small sign of it.
