Gomestic > Pets

Keeping Painted Turtles

Painted turtles, or red-eared sliders, are relatively small animals that can grow to be almost to length of a football. They can make fascinating pets with aquatic acrobatics and even their own personality quirks. They can be found through much of north America in lakes and rivers, and they can make a good conversation piece in a living room.

Catching

Catching a painted turtle is illegal in some places, so you might want to check the area you live in before you try to get one. If you can, find a small lake on a nice sunny day, grab a net with a long handle, and begin to make your way around the lake, trying to stay low so your future pet doesn’t spot you before you are close enough. Turtles seem to be more vulnerable early in the day before they have had a chance to warm up.

Like all reptiles they are cold blooded, so they are sluggish in the cool morning air. You’ll have to look hard because turtles have evolved to blend into the plants and leaf litter, not to mention that wild turtles have algae growing on their shells. Try looking at reeds about a foot into the water, or on the bank.

Once you do spot the turtle, crouch even lower and move very slowly so you don’t spook it. Once your in range, throw the net over the turtle. If it’s in the water already, throw the net downward in front of the turtle and pull it towards you. The turtle will try to swim into deeper water and will go right into the net. Once you have him, you can carry him back in the net; he will tuck into his shell, so he won’t get hurt.

Housing

All aquatic turtles need water in order to stay happy and healthy; they also like to eat under water. The minimum depth of water is as high as the turtle is wide so that it can move freely, but I recommend giving it as much water as you can. Aquatic turtle spend most of their life in the water, and they are far more agile while swimming. This isn’t to say that they don’t need a place to climb out though.

Most pet stores have little ramps and docks that attach to the aquarium with suction cups. These work rather well. You should also put some fake plants in the bottom to make your pet feel more at home. I don’t recommend real plants as aquatic turtles are very active, and they will even eat the plants since they are a part of a turtles diet. You will, however, need a heating light with UV rays.

Turtles need sunlight to grow their shells, but glass can block out these rays, so you will need to get a heat lamp and light at your pet store ( make sure it says it emits these light rays). Place this over your turtle’s floating dock so that it can bask and relax. You will also need a filter, maybe even two depending on the size of the tank and turtle. You can also add a few items at the bottom of the tank; turtles like to peek their heads out of the water while anchoring themselves with their hind legs.

A lid is only required if your dock is less than the turtles body length from the top. Turtles are surprisingly good climbers (I even once found a small painted turtle in a tree!)

Feeding

Turtles are predators during their younger years, but switch to a mostly vegetarian diet in their older age, so what you feed it will depend on the turtle you have.

Earthworms, large beetles and small fish are great for a youngster, but you can still give them the store bought turtle pellets to round out the diet (they need the vitamin d supplement to stay healthy). Older turtles have larger appetites and may still eat meat, so I don’t recommend keeping any expensive fish with them. Some people might find feeding turtle live fish as barbaric, but this is how they eat in the wild and it gives them much needed exercises. It also makes the tank seem less empty.

Keep in mind that if you do keep fish in the tank you will need something to keep it oxygenated, and turtles are very messy eaters, so you will have to scoop fish parts out with a net every now and then. Turtles can also eat bits of ham and such, but that isn’t really a part of their diet. In fact they will eat almost anything that moves. Older ones “should” eat lettuce and vegetables, but they might be picky, so you’ll have to find out what yours likes.

Cleaning

A turtles tank needs to be cleaned at least once a week; it helps to set aside a day for it. You need to clean out the filter and occasionally replace the water. Once in a while you will need to rinse off the small rocks that line to bottom of the tank as the bits of filth with collect there. If you have an algae problem growing on the glass DO NOT BUY A SUCKER FISH! Your turtle will kill it before it does any good. Instead, you need to get a squeegee to scrub it off.

While you are cleaning the tank, you can put your turtle in the tub, or better yet, outside where it can get some real sun and stretch its legs a bit, just make sure it‘s in an enclosed space and it can‘t run off. Refill the tank with cool, but not cold water, and place your turtle on the dock so it can go into the water on its own.

Handling

Sadly, many reptile pets including turtles can carry salmonella, so you should make sure to thoroughly clean you hands after handling them or their water. They can also be aggressive, so keep you hands away from their face or they may bite you.

When picking up a turtle, try to get a hold of the turtle form behind, if you grab them by the side, their legs can get a grip on you and scratch you; large turtles have pretty sharp claws.

Other Considerations

Turtles can be territorial animals, so you don’t NEED to put several of them together, but they shouldn’t kill each other if you do, though you may need to separate them during feeding.

Most turtles settle their disputes by doing a funny display underwater where they wiggle their claws at each other, sounds strange I know. Mating is ironically more violent; the male will bite the female around the head. If you have a mating pair and the female is pregnant, you need to give her a place to lay her eggs, or she will lay them in the water and they will die. A small area with loose soil and mulch should do nicely. Just put her there at night as that seems to be the time they lay their eggs. Keep this little spot nice and warm, but not hot, and in a few months you should have a bunch of little turtles.

I really recommend you release these where you caught the parent though, as rearing baby turtles is pretty hard; they have a high mortality rate. Turtles also need vitamin D which most turtle pellet food contains, but without it the turtle’s eyes will grow shut and it can die. And finally, make sure you take your turtle out of the tank and let it walk around every now and then, they need the exercise.

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Comments (31)
#1 by lanne, Aug 12, 2007
Good article. We have 2 sliders. One we have had for almost 21 yrs.They do make great pets.
#2 by Cody, Aug 14, 2007
Thanks I was totally lost with the fedding thing and you pointed out some important and vital things keeping my turtle healthy and happy thanks again for being a great help.
#3 by kayleigh, Sep 15, 2007
just bought to lovely painted turtles. didnt know much about them. u was a gr8 help, thanks.
#4 by ken, Oct 7, 2007
thankz for the help!!
#5 by Haley, Oct 27, 2007
This article has tons of facts and also helps me keep on track with the feeding and habits of a turtle i have had for 10 years.
#6 by Krista, Oct 29, 2007
My boyfriend had got me a painted turtle last winter from a friend of ours. I got to be there when he got it and she was a sweety of course. Surprising a very active turtle, I named her; Happy. Our friend had given us some tips and some turtle flake food, which for a long time she really seemed to enjoy. My boyfriend went out and got her a proper tank, floating dock, pump and a UV light. Everything seemed really great and we had fallen in love with her. About a month ago she started to slow down and spent most of her time sleeping. This was expected behaviour to us for a turtle so nothing was thought of it. Recently, she does not like to sit under the UV light, everytime we turn it on she hides under her dock until the light is off. Also, she will not eat, we had tried to switch her to pellets as we thought maybe her appetite was changing, but still nothing. There is no sign of her moving, swimming or even eating. Although, I do hear a little movement of rocks in the middle of the night, so I am sure she is up to something. We tried to give her some gupies, she still has not touched them, from about a week ago. We are of course worried for her, but, even more now because I had noticed I don't see her open her eyes oftenly. I am starting to be afraid for her life, I am not sure what to do and am in desperate need of help. Is there anything I can do to help my baby?
#7 by Togot, Oct 30, 2007
hi there krista. a high cause of young turtle mortality is improper diet. the young ones need more meat in their diet than turtle pellets and flakes, but they can be too slow to catch fish. I would suggest feeding Happy a small earth worm, mine loves them. but if her condition has deteriorated to the point that she can't feed herself, I strongly recommend taking her to an exotic pet specialist. check your phone book to find one near you and make an appointment. young turtles can get eye infections, respiratory diseases, and shell rot so you have to keep a close eye on them and react quickly. I hope this helps you and i hope you can enjoy many more years with Happy.
#8 by Katie , Apr 26, 2008
I have two painted turtles one baby and one that is at least two years of age. The larger i've had since he was the size of a silver dollar and raised it for the past two years. The baby i have just taken in and is smaller than the size of a quarter. My question to you is can i put them both in the same tank without having to worry about the larger turtle trying to eat or attack the smaller of the two. As of now the large turtle is in a 60 gallon tank living in heaven but the smaller is only in a ten. I know that the smaller turtle can live and grow in the 10 gallon tank just fine but it would be nice and easier to maintain if they could both be in the 60 gallon tank. I am simply interested in the best interest of the small turtle and do not want to cause it any harm. If you could please answer my question I would be very grateful.
#9 by Chihiro, Apr 27, 2008
I love turtles and have resently found a young painted turtle in my swimming pool. I have been doing reaserch and found a lot of information and thanks to this websight I found out a lot of new thimgs. On the downside, I went to my local petstores (Roxwell Pets and Petco) and haven\\\'t found a tank as large as most of my research asks for and my question is: Will a 5-10 gallon tank sufice?
#10 by Lynn, Apr 27, 2008
great help! i now have 2 painted turtles and if there wasnt any info about egg laying i wouldn't have any baby turtles! i released them into the pond after they hatched because where i live you cant have turtles under 2 in.
#11 by Togot, May 7, 2008
Kate, you can put them in the same tank, but make sure it is large enough for them to have their space. larger turtles tend to bully smaller ones, so they can kill each other if they get too territorial. I recommend putting them together on the ground so they can get used to each other. turtles fight under water, not on land, so their should be less aggression. then you can put them together in the tank, but keep an eye on them for an hour or two. if the big one chases the little one around and wiggles his fingers at it (sounds weird but that's how they threaten each other) then you might want to separate them.

Chihiro, a 5-10 gallon tank will be fine for smaller turtles, but if it is an older animal, you should probably try a 30 or even 60 gallon tank. try looking at garage sales. i find they often have large tanks at very good prices.

Lynn, congrats, getting eggs to hatch is pretty tricky
#12 by gabrielle, May 13, 2008
i'm so glad i found this site. i'm in the same situation as katie. i have had Tataruga for 2 years (since he was a hatchling) this past weekend i found and adopted Jenny (a new hatchling) i wasn't so sure about putting them together. jenny is about the size of a quarter and Tataruga is the size of a squished softball. i didnt really think Tataruga would intentionally hurt Jenny , he has been handraised since hatching and has had a lot of out of tank one on one playtime with me and is quite socialized. i was afraid that he may step on her or barrell over her or something. so i will do as togot suggested and introduce them outside in the sunny grass and see how they do then move them into the mutual tank - but put them one at a time into the feeding tank . thanx also for the heads up about the finger wiggling i had not read about that anywahere else - i will keep an eye out for that. i'm glad to have found you guys . thanx. TURTLES ROCK!!!
#13 by Ashley, May 15, 2008
This was great it helped me out alot!!! We found Tracker on the rail road tracks hence his name. Right now he's about the size of a dime. I'm not sure yet if he's a boy or a girl. Time will tell I guess. Although this told me what I need it does not tell me what I can subtitute before I get what I need if anyone knows and can help please reply.....thanks
#14 by Togot, May 16, 2008
Ashly, a large bucket with water and a rock to climb out on should suffice for such a small turtle on the short term until you can get a more suitable setup. good luck with the little guy, and keep in mind that turtles are more insectivorous at a young age. feed him small worms and insects. they need a lot of protein that normal turtle pellets won't provide.
#15 by Gene, May 29, 2008
I am going to be getting a painted turtle from someone I know and I had planned on putting it in my 90 gallon pond out in my yard. It is properly filtered and never builds up any algae. i have a basking appartatus for the turtle also. my only concern is that I do not have a heater for the pond, and i am wondering if anyone thinks this is a good idea to keep the turtle outside. I know thats essentially their natural enviornment, but still, any feedback would help!
#16 by Togot, May 29, 2008
Gene, as long as you live in a warm climate it should be fine. Make sure you haven’t added any chemicals to the pond such as bleach, and you will still have to feed your pet on a regular basis. If you want your turtle to stay in your yard, I recommend encircling the pond area with a small fence. You should also give it some form of shelter so a raccoon doesn’t come down and eat it. I would recommend you bring your pet inside during the winter. If you can’t do this, then make sure it has access to soft soil so it can burry itself and hibernate. I have a small pond that I let my turtles play in during the summer and I rarely have any problems. I hope this was helpful
#17 by Tori Lee, Jun 3, 2008
hey i just got the cutest little baby painted turtle, (his name is taco) and i was wondering if i could keep him in the tank for like a week without a filtration system, until i can afford to buy one? and i was wondering if you meant i could let it outside on the ground without any water?
#18 by Togot, Jun 4, 2008
Tori, A week should be ok, just keep an eye on the water. If it gets really cloudy and dirty, change it. One of the leading causes of fatal disease in young turtles is dirty water. And as long as you give your turtle some kind of cover for Taco to hide under and get out of the sun to cool down, he should be fine without water outside for a while, just don’t leave him out too long
#19 by Stephanie, Jun 12, 2008
I have a turtle named Theadore and tommorow he is moving into a 90 gallon tank. Unfortunately, until now he hasn't ever had water deep enough to swim in so I was wondering how deep I should make the water because of that. Also, will he eat flies and moths if I can catch them? This page is SOOOOO helpful!
#20 by Togot, Jun 13, 2008
Steohanie, thanks, and to answer your question, as deep as you want. turtles are natural swimmers, they are born knowing how to do it so it shouldn't be a problem. just be sure to give him somthing to out on to heat bask. also don't be startled if he sleeps under water, it's normal.
#21 by Alex, Jun 13, 2008
I have had my painted turtle for 4 years and unfortunately we haven't ever fed him his natural food only the storebought food. I was wondering if he would recognize lettuce, beetles, and earthworms as his natural food any more. Also, he like frozen krill that have been slightly thaughed. Is this an OK food for him or not?
#22 by Togot, Jun 13, 2008
Alex, Turtles have a natural instinct to bite anything in front of them that looks like it might be edible. (mine tried to eat the sponge part of the filter when he popped it open) so you shouldn’t have to worry about him not eating it...well maybe the lettuce. My turtles usually take one bite and then ignore any plant matter I give them. As for the krill, It’s not a normal food for turtles as far as I know, but I don’t see how it would be bad for him.
#23 by happy, Jun 21, 2008
ijust caught a baby painted turtle today i was just wondering how long they can stay under water. and can they eat tuna i was scard to give it to her so i just gave her carrots and radishes
#24 by Togot, Jun 21, 2008
Happy, a big cause of baby turtle deaths is people giving them the wrong food. young turtles need a lot of protein; that means meat. give your turtle worms and bugs with the occasional turtle pellet thrown in for vitamin D which is also crucial to young turtles. you also need to either get it an all spectrum heat lamp, or place it out where it can get direct sunlight for a few hours each day, this helps it's shell grow properly. Tunna is very oily and although it shouldn't hurt the turtle, it will make the tank's water very dirty. best of luck to you.
#25 by chb, Jun 28, 2008
Thanks for the information. We just got a baby reeves turtle. I had NO idea how much care they need. I clean his tank every other day. I just got him some little fish, hopefully he'll enjoy them! We love him! I have noticed since we got him plants he hides in them all the time. Is this normal?
#26 by Togot, Jun 28, 2008
CHB, yes this is normal, young turtles rely on camouflage for protection. when he gets older he might try to eat them (if they are real) for now it's good that he has a hiding place so he can feel safe.
#27 by JG, Jul 1, 2008
It really helped me to know more about my pet! :)
#28 by chb, Jul 2, 2008
Our reeves turtle has not been swimming very often. It seems as though he's scared to go into deeper water. I took the plants out because i thought i saw little worm like things - since i put them in the tank. He has this sore on his "belly." I don't know if he's always had it or if it's recent. He also seemed like he was scared of the fish. He still eats his turtle food, and is always hungry. I don't know what to do. He is like our little baby. Is there any suggestions?
#29 by Togot, Jul 2, 2008
CHB, I admittedly have little experience with this species of turtle, so I did some research for you and from what I can find, the Reeves turtle prefers shallow water with sandy or muddy bottoms. It also seems to be a veracious eater and will over eat if you feed him too much, so just because he seems hungry doesn’t mean you should keep feeding him. If he won’t eat fish, here are some other recommended food items: raw liver, steak, beef heart, cooked chicken, lettuce, pear, cantaloupe, earthworms, mealworms, crickets, monkey chow, and the prepared turtle foods such as Tetra's Reptomin. It’s fear of deep water and plants could just be a personality quirk, so I wouldn’t worry about that. As for the sore, there is mention of an infection common to imported animals that sounds like what you are describing. It is not immediately life threatening, but I do recommend taking it to an exotic pet vet to have it looked at more closely so you can treat it. I hope this was helpful to you, and good luck with your little baby
#30 by chb, Jul 2, 2008
(: Thanks for the inforamtion. I actually live in Japan so i got him from here. I will try to find a vet ASAP. Thanks again.
#31 by Togot, Jul 3, 2008
sorry Chb, that was presumptuous of me. i\'m glad it was helpful and i hope your pet gets better soon
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