Fleas. If you have pets, you know more about these lil…ahem…than you want to know. They are unbelievably resilient (rivaled only by the cockroach), and while they prefer cats and dogs (the body temperature is more pleasing to them), they will happily munch upon humans if no four-footed creatures are available. While bubonic plague is often cited as a good reason not to have fleas about, that is a disease caused by a very specific flea, in a specific environment. This does not rule out other conditions spread by fleas or allergic reactions to the bite. At the very least, they cause painful and embarrassing itching.
The market abounds with products, rumors, suggestions and folk wisdom on how to get rid of the beasties. Effectiveness varies, as does the toxicity of the treatments. Dog products are more readily obtainable that those for cats, and dogs are less prone to adverse reactions. Treating cats for fleas is a toss-up. Cats tend to be more delicate when it comes to medications. They have adverse reactions to more types of meds and substances than dogs. They are also harder hit by a flea infestation. Some breeds of dogs, however, can also have reactions to the flea insecticides, and to fleas.. If your budget will allow it, getting your veterinarian involved in your anti-flea campaign is an excellent idea.
If you cannot afford a good vet, then the next line of defense is a licensed veterinary supply. While there are some reputable sellers online, be wary of purchasing medications from the Internet. Veterinary offices have always been a target for theft, but last year thieves seemed to focus on flea prevention products. It is possible that some products offered for sale online may not have been lawfully obtained.
Some products offered for sale over-the-counter are simply ineffective. Some may cause health problems for your pet. Some may be touted as “natural”, and therefore assumed to be better for your pet than chemically produced, but may actually challenge your pets' health as much as more conventional products.
Your local veterinary will be glad to dispense products such as Frontline, and Advantage. I've had good luck with both. Frontline tends to be a little milder, and not prevent quite as broad a spectrum of pests. Advantage Plus for dogs is quite good, but my veterinarian explained that it can be toxic to cats; so in deference to my mixed household, I dropped back to Frontline.
No matter where you get your flea toxins, you should always read all directions carefully. Observe your pet closely for the first 24 hours after application. If your pet develops listlessness, rashes, fever or any other unusual condition, the sooner you call your vet the better your darling's chances for survival. Cats, especially, may be unpredictable in their response to medications. Even the best vet cannot always predict individual responses.
“Natural” does not necessarily mean better. Some years ago, I grew my insecticides-Fleabane, Rue, and Southernwood are all very useful in curtailing insect infestations. However, these are all strong toxins. I did NOT use them on my animals; rather, I used them in cleaning my house, and in potpourri sachets tucked in linen closets and similar places. I also fenced the living plants carefully to prevent children or unwary adults from picking a poison from my garden.
In recent years, it has become fashionable to add citrus to many cleaning products (and other things.) Ostensibly, this should be a relatively safe ingredient. However, I developed an allergic reaction to the stuff, and for nearly 18 months did my laundry, washed my hair and did dishes in plain soap from the health food store till I could locate products that did not contain citrus oil. I repeat: Natural is NOT always better.
Under the same heading, choose your veterinarian carefully. Some vets are primarily concerned with dogs, some are mostly for cows and horses. Some graduated at the top of their class, others…well, you can see where I'm going here. Don't be shy about speaking up about your pets condition; you know your companion better than anyone, and you are your baby's first line of defense in a speaking world.
Once you have selected an effective, and hopefully safe treatement for your pet, you have only half the battle. Fleas and flea eggs drop off your animal into your house. Wash bedding, throws etc often. A piece of flea collar in your vacuum cleaner bag will kill any live ones that get vacuumed up, and will prevent the heat of your vacuum cleaner from hatching out a fresh batch of the little blood suckers. If possible, limit cloth furnishings. This may seem extreme, but I've found wicker to be comfortable and easy to clean. Try to choose pet furnishings that are easy-care-preferably machine washable.
Finally, if introducing a new pet to your home, make a stop at your local pet doctor before you bring it home. In that way, you can check for illnesses, fleas, and get any needed shots started before your new friend meets the ones who already live with you.
In summary:
- Involve your vet-and pick carefully!
- Treat your pet; read all directions and observe closely for reactions
- Clean your environment. Plan for prevention.
- Put no faith in “natural” labels. The products may be good, but they are not necessarily better than their counter parts.
- Get new friends checked out before you bring them home
What did we do in the bad old days before Frontline and such? We dipped, bathed, and dusted. We scrubbed, washed in hot water, and changed bedding frequently. And in the really, really olden days? Lye soap will kill almost anything. Those strewing herbs on the hall floor often included Fleabane, Rue, and Southerwood. And…we learned not to scratch in company, no matter how hard the little dickenses could bite!
