When pressing a new fabric, try pressing a sample before applying the iron to the garment. Thus, scorch-and-shine lessons may be learned with less serious consequences.
To remove scorch marks, alternate applications of ammonia, detergent, and water. Rinse area well before re-pressing. If this treatment fails, mix a few drops of ammonia with one tablespoon of peroxide. Rub mixture into the stain. Rinse well. For wools, it may be necessary to sand the scorched area with very fine sandpaper.
A fabric may develop a shine from ironing without a press cloth. To remove the shine, make a solution of hot vinegar and water or ammonia and water. Rub into the fabric. Rinse well.
To remove grease marks on washable fabrics, pour cleaning fluid through the stain. For dry-clean-only fabrics try trichlorocthane. For ballpoint pen marks, spray polyester fabric with hair spray. Marks will often disappear. If this fails, try a spot remover. Pencil marks may sometimes be removed with an eraser or by alternate treatments of ammonia and detergent. To remove paint, rub detergent into the stain and rinse. If the spot remains, rub turpentine into the area. Rinse well.
Mildew should be treated as soon as possible with alternating applications of detergent and rubbing alcohol. Expose to sunlight. For grass stains, try rubbing with detergent first. If stain remains, rub with one part alcohol and two parts water. If stain persists, use chlorine or peroxide bleach.
Food and drink stains are common and fairly easy to remove. To remove stains of alcoholic beverages from a dry-cleanable garment, rub with water and cornstarch. For a washable garment, soak first in cold water and then warm sudsy water. If stain persists, combine two tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide to one gallon of water. Soak for one-half hour and rinse well. For coffee and tea stains, pour boiling water through the stain from a three-foot height.
For fruit and berry stains, apply white vinegar and rinse well. To remove milk stains, soak in cool water and detergent for washable fabrics or sponge with cleaning fluid for dry cleanable fabrics.
Chewing gum is a real stubborn one. Apply ice and pry gum from surface with a knife. Soak gummed area in cleaning fluid.
For perspiration stains, sponge a fresh stain with ammonia. Restore an old stained area with white vinegar. Rinse well.
The main drawback in owning real suede or leather garments is having to dry-clean them. If a leather garment is really quite soiled, professional dry cleaning may be necessary. However, many stains can be removed at home.
For protection against water and stains, spray your new leather garment with All Protector, which keeps spots from setting in.
A high-gloss leather is more difficult to keep looking new than a natural finish and may show spots and streaks if worn in rain or snow.
If you get caught in the rain while wearing a smooth leather garment, the leather will probably stiffen up a bit after it fries. To return the garment to its original supply condition, rub Cadillac Lotion Reconditioner into it. These products are available in good quality leather clothing shops.
If you get a grease spot on smooth leather, here's what you can do. Purchase a paste of mink oil from a shoemaker. Apply a small amount to a soft cloth such as an old T-shirt. Rub the cloth over the bristles of a soft brush, distributing the mink oil evenly. Go over the entire garment with the brush, blending into the grease mark. Try a sample on a hidden part of the garment first. This drastic measure works, although it deepens the color.
Suede is easier to care for. If you spill wine on it, clean spot with a water-soaked cloth, using a blot-and-lift motion. If you notice a grease mark, apply corn meal or baking powder to absorb the grease. Brush carefully with a medium-bristle brush.
Before using any of the above treatments, always try the solution on an unseen part of the garment to check for color fastness and general reaction.
