Installing chain link fencing is a quick and reasonably priced way to dress up the perimeter of your yard. If you are not trying to enclose acres of ground, most people can install this fencing as a do-it-yourself project. You need to allow a couple of days to do the job and recruit a friend or two as assistants. If you do not have consecutive days to work, plan to make it happen on consecutive weekends.
Start the project by measuring the length and width of the space to be fenced. This number will give you the amount of fencing supplies that you need to purchase. A good way to be sure to buy the proper amount is to draw the space on paper. Try to get close to a scale drawing. For a smaller yard, let about a quarter of an inch represent one foot of length. If the yard is large, you may need to back up to an eighth or a tenth of an inch per foot.
Once you have the drawing, you can begin to work on where to set the posts and any gates that you want to install. Every place that the fence will have a corner, you will need to have a corner post. These posts are larger in diameter than the line posts and often are slightly heavier construction. You will also need a corner post on either side of any gate that you install. If the fence will abut your house or a building, you will need a corner post to be set against the wall of the building to use as a fence terminus.
Along the straight runs of fence between the corner posts, you will need to sketch in the positions of the line posts. A good rule of thumb is to put a line post about every eight feet. However, to keep from having short runs from the last line post to a corner post, you may need to adjust this distance a little. You can set the line posts at any distance between about 7 feet and 9 feet apart. Since the top rails are 10 feet long, these distances will still let you assemble the fence without a problem. So, try to space them somewhat evenly along each side.
You can actually use the yard itself as your model, but I prefer a sketch. Once the sketch is completed, count the line and corner posts and record the number of each that you will need. Each post will need the appropriate type of cap. Corner posts will have caps with one and two openings for the top rails to be inserted. If the it is used on a corner, you will need the two openings. If it is a terminus at a gate or building, get the one opening type of cap. Line posts all use the same type of cap that allows the top rail to pass through the cap along is route.
At each corner and terminus, you will need a stretching bar. This is a flat piece of metal about ¾ of an inch wide and 3 or 4 feet long. You anchor it to the end of the fence fabric to give you something to pull against to put tension on the fence to make it nice and tight. For corners, you will need two bars. End or terminus posts will need one bar.
Doing one side at a time, divide the length by 10 feet or the length of the top rails that you intend to purchase if that length is different. Round the number up and that is the number of rail sections that you will need to purchase for that side. For example, if the side is 45 feet. You will get 4.5 when you divide. So, buy 5 rail segments. You may get an opportunity to cheat and use both ends of a cut rail, but do not plan on it. If you have extra at the end of the project, you can return them. When you have done this for each side, add up the total number of rails needed.
Each post will require about 4 or 5 ties to hold the fence in place. These usually come in packaged in bundles. Do the math to determine how many you will need and buy enough bundles to exceed that number. You may want to buy wire to stretch along the fence about 2 or 3 inches from the ground. This will help keep dogs and small children from escaping by pushing under the fence. This wire comes in rolls. It is optional whether you use it or not. If you choose to install it, buy about 10 or 15 feet more than you expect to need to give you enough for tying off the ends as you stretch the fence.
