During my senior year of high school in 1994 I became friends with a Japanese exchange student named Junichi. After we graduated and he headed home to Japan we kept in touch through letters. Late one winter's night about five years later I received a call from Junichi telling me that he was coming into town for a visit. I picked him up from the airport and he came to stay at my family's house for a week.
One day while we were hanging out at home, Junichi asked me if I'd ever heard of, or tried, okonomiyaki. Of course I hadn't, but he said he would show me how to make it. We hurried out to the store to pick up what we needed.
Traditionally, okonomiyaki requires only three or four basic ingredients. Naturally, these vary by region in Japan, and by personal preference. There are also no set quantities or arrangements of ingredients, either. For the version that Junichi planned to make we bought a package of thin sliced beef, a head of cabbage and a package of soybean sprouts.
First off, mix up a simple batter of flour and water. The batter needs to be on the thin side, and not too lumpy, so add a bit more water than flour. It should not be as thick as pancake batter or it will simply cook solid like a pancake. Cut the beef into strips and chop the cabbage into small pieces like what would be used for making Cole slaw. Heat up a skillet or a pan and add just a little bit of cooking oil.
One of the main regional differences in the preparation of okonomiyaki is the way in which the ingredients are combined in the skillet. In the western areas of the main island of Honshu this dish is made by first putting down a base of batter mixed with cabbage and then arranging the remaining ingredients on top of this and flipping it until it's fully cooked. In other parts of the country the ingredients are layered. Junichi made them according to this latter method.
After the skillet is heated, spoon some of the batter into it. Lay down some beef, cabbage and bean sprouts and drizzle more batter over top. From this point simply repeat this process until the ingredients have all been used up. Each time a layer is made, be sure to drizzle more batter onto it. As the food cooks the batter acts as a sealant to hold everything together. Flip every couple of minutes. It takes several minutes to make an okonomiyaki, but it is well worth the wait. While Junichi cooked he mentioned that in Japan some vendors will cook one giant okonomiyaki on their skillet and slice off sections as people order them.
Once an okonomiyaki is finished it is traditionally garnished with three or four items. Most Asian grocery stores typically carry the main three. Look for a type of imported mayonnaise sold not in jars but in large plastic squeeze bottles. The brand I've used is called Kewpi, although I'm sure there are other brands available. This kind of mayo is much thicker and richer than its American counterpart. The second garnish is Fruit and Vegetable Sauce, a dark brown sauce with a very strong tangy, sour flavor. This too comes in a large plastic bottle. There is a brand by the name of Bulldog that I've used. The third item is bonito flakes. Bonito are a species of small thin silver fish used frequently in Japanese cooking. Dried bonito flakes are mainly used in the making of soup stock, although they are occasionally used as a garnish. They are sold in bags filled with individually sealed packets. Chopped green onions are also used as a garnish for this dish.
While the okonomiyaki is still in the skillet apply a generous amount of mayonnaise. Next add the Fruit and Vegetable Sauce. A handful of green onions and a handful of bonito flakes on top of this will finish it off and then the okonomiyaki can be served. The sweetness and crunch of the cabbage and bean sprouts combined with the stronger, heavier taste of the beef and the tangy compliment of the mayo and Fruit and Vegetable Sauce make it the perfect balance of texture and flavor.
